Wash day again? Or is it time to hand your hair to a braider and forget about it for six weeks?
Black hair can be anything from naturally afro to smooth and straight to a mass of curls a la Whitney Houston, and that’s the fun of it. A puff or a twist-out gets you through the weekend. Box braids and cornrows carry you through a month or two. Locs grow with you for years.
Our advice? Accentuate the natural flow of your hair. If your locks grow up and out, embrace it, honey. If they twirl and curl in a maze of mayhem, organize them into braids or twists rather than ironing them into submission.
And if you’d rather shock (in the best of ways), you can opt for a short, clipped cut, or even rock a bald ‘do in the footsteps of Willow Smith, Lupita Nyong’o and Amber Rose. Here are 51 ideas, each shown twice, with the words to use in the chair.
Natural hairstyles for Black girls
Fluffy afro
A fluffy afro is your natural texture picked out and shaped round, so it frames the face like a halo. Stretch it first with a braid-out or a blow-dry on low heat if you want more size. A wide-tooth pick at the roots keeps the shape without flattening the curls.
What to ask for A rounded shape cut on dry, stretched hair, even length all over, ends trimmed curl by curl, picked out at the roots to finish.
Big afro puff
All of your hair is gathered into one big puff, high on the crown or low at the back. It’s a second-day favorite: smooth the edges, pull a stretchy band over, and fluff the ends with your fingers. Use a soft band, because a tight elastic snaps coils.
What to ask for Edges smoothed with gel and a brush, all hair gathered into one puff at the crown, a soft band, ends shaped round.
Curly pixie with textured coils
This pixie keeps the coils long on top and cuts the sides and back close, so the curl pattern does the styling. It suits a heart or oval face, and it’s quick in the morning: a leave-in, a little curl cream, done. Book a trim every four to six weeks to keep the shape sharp.
What to ask for Two to three inches of curl on top, tapered short at the sides and nape, shaped on dry hair so the curls sit where they fall.
Honey blonde afro
A honey blonde afro puts warm color on a round natural shape. Lightening coily hair takes care, so ask for a bond builder in the lightener and deep condition every week after. The warm tone flatters deep and medium skin alike.
What to ask for Lift to a warm honey blonde with a bond builder, a gloss to finish, then a rounded afro shape cut on dry hair.
Bright short pink afro
Short coils in hot pink or berry make the color the whole point, and the short cut means the lightened ends grow out fast. Semi-permanent pinks fade in a few weeks, so wash in cool water and use a color-safe shampoo. On a tapered cut, the dark roots at the nape keep it looking deliberate.
What to ask for A short tapered afro, lifted and toned to a bright pink or magenta, color-safe gloss, tapered close at the nape and sides.
Teeny weeny afro (TWA)
A TWA is short natural hair of an inch or two all over, often the first cut after the big chop. It shows off your face and your earrings, and it’s washed and styled in minutes. A light leave-in and a little oil keep the coils soft.
What to ask for One to two inches all over, tapered slightly at the nape and above the ears, shaped round and even on dry hair.
Big chop baby curls
The big chop cuts off relaxed or heat-damaged ends and keeps only the new natural growth, so these are your curls starting over. They’ll clump more as they grow. Define them with a curl cream and finger coils, and let them air-dry.
What to ask for Cut off all relaxed or damaged ends, keep the natural new growth, shape it round, and taper the sides a little.
Wash-n-go
A wash-n-go is exactly what it says: wash, apply a leave-in and a gel on soaking-wet hair, and let it dry without touching it. The curls clump together and hold their shape for a few days. It works on short and medium natural hair, and a diffuser speeds up the drying.
What to ask for A shape cut on dry curls, shorter at the sides, longer on top, then a wash-n-go with gel applied in sections on wet hair.
Twist-out
A twist-out is two-strand twists set overnight and opened up in the morning, so the curls come out bigger and more defined. It lasts about three to five days between washes. Take them apart with oiled fingers and separate gently for volume.
What to ask for Two-strand twists on damp, moisturized hair with a setting cream, left to dry fully, then unravelled and separated for volume.
Side-parted curly bob
A curly bob with a deep side part gives the crown extra lift on one side and lets the curls fall across the cheek on the other. It suits a round or square face, because the part breaks up the width. Keep the cut on dry hair, so you see where each curl really sits.
What to ask for A bob cut on dry curls to the chin, longer on the heavy side, with a deep side part and a little layering at the crown.
Buzz cut
A buzz cut on a woman shows off the cheekbones, the jawline and the shape of the head. There’s no styling to speak of, only a line-up and a reshape every two to three weeks. Add a shaved design at the side if you want the barber to have some fun.
What to ask for A number one or two all over, a sharp line-up at the hairline, and a shaved design above one ear if you want one.
Buns, puffs and updos
Coiled bun
Long braids are wound round and round on the crown into one big coiled bun. The braids carry the length, so the bun is full even if your own hair is short. Leave two thin braids loose at the front to soften it.
What to ask for Medium box braids, waist length, wound into a high coiled bun and pinned, two braids left loose at the front.
Formal updo
A formal updo on natural hair is smoothed and pinned into rolls or a sculpted bun, then finished with a pin or a comb. It holds through a whole wedding if the edges are set with gel first. Book a trial if the event matters.
What to ask for Hair stretched and smoothed, edges laid, pinned into a sculpted chignon at the back, a decorative pin at one side.
Braided natural updo
Cornrows run up from the nape and the sides and meet in a bun or knot on top, using only your own hair. It keeps the hair off your neck in the heat. Keep it in for one to two weeks and oil the scalp between the rows.
What to ask for Cornrows on my own hair, braided upward from the nape and sides, finished in a bun on the crown.
Braided updo
Braids with added hair are swept up and wrapped into a big bun on top, with stitched cornrows or heart parts on the sides. The extra length gives the bun its height. It’s a protective style, so it can stay in for four to six weeks.
What to ask for Feed-in cornrows on the sides with a heart or zigzag parting, braided up into a high bun with added hair, edges laid.
Puff top knot
A puff top knot pulls a puff or a braid bun tight on the crown. It lifts the face and shows your earrings. Wrap the band twice at most, and never across the edges.
What to ask for Edges smoothed, all hair gathered high on the crown, a top knot or puff with added braiding hair if my hair is short.
Pineapple updo
The pineapple is a loose, high puff with the curls tumbling forward over the front, a night-time trick that works as a day look too. Gather everything at the very top of the head with a soft scrunchie. The curls stay stretched and uncrushed overnight.
What to ask for All curls gathered loosely at the very top of the head with a soft scrunchie, curls left falling forward, no tight band.
Twists and curls updo
Twists are pinned up into a sculpted crown, with a few twists left curling down around the face. It works for a wedding, a night out or an interview. Pin rather than band it, so there’s no pull at the roots.
What to ask for Two-strand or Havana twists pinned up into a sculpted updo, a few twists left loose and curled around the face.
Low bun
A low bun at the nape, sleek on top, is the neat one of the group. It sits well with a suit, and it’s gentle because the pull isn’t on the edges. Stretch the hair first so the bun is smooth.
What to ask for Hair stretched and smoothed back with gel, a side or center part, gathered into a low bun at the nape.
Space buns
Two buns high on the head, one each side of a center part, look playful and keep the hair off your face. On natural hair, the buns can be a little fuzzy on purpose. Sleek the parts with gel for a neater finish.
What to ask for A clean center part, two high buns, one each side, edges laid, the rest smoothed with gel.
Bantu knots
Bantu knots are sections twisted and wound into small knots all over the head. Wear them as they are, or undo them after a few days for a bouncy knot-out. Neat square parts make the look.
What to ask for Square parts, eight to twelve Bantu knots, each twisted tight and wound flat, set with a light mousse.
Half-up, half-down hairstyles
Half-up, half-down
The top half of the hair is braided or gathered up and the rest hangs loose. You get the length and the face-framing at once. In braids, cornrows on top and box braids underneath make the half-and-half look.
What to ask for Cornrows on the top half braided back, knotless or box braids underneath, all the same length, edges laid.
Half-up bun
The top section is wound into a bun on the crown while the rest of the braids or hair fall down the back. It’s a good way to wear waist-length braids on a hot day. Moving the bun a little higher or lower changes the whole look.
What to ask for Braids or twists, the top third gathered into a bun on the crown, the rest left down, a clean parting at the front.
Half-up top knot
A small top knot sits on the crown and everything below it hangs loose. It pulls the hair off your face without committing to a full updo. With locs, a cuff around the knot dresses it up.
What to ask for The top section, from the temples up, gathered into a high knot, the rest left down, a cuff or band around the knot.
Curly half-updo
Cornrows or a sleek front section are braided back, and the rest of the hair falls in curls. It looks polished at the front and soft at the back. Refresh the curls with a water spray and a little cream.
What to ask for Three to five cornrows from the front hairline back to the crown, the rest left curly and defined with a curl cream.
Cornrows and braided styles
Cornrows
Cornrows are braided flat to the scalp in lines, straight back or curved, and they’re the base of dozens of styles. On your own hair they last one to two weeks; with added hair, two to four. Keep the rows neat at the hairline and don’t let them pull.
What to ask for Straight-back cornrows, eight to twelve rows, added hair for length if I want it, not tight at the edges.
Crown braid
One braid goes all the way round the head like a crown, or two braids meet at the back. It’s a clean, elegant style for an event. The ends stay tucked away. Stretching the hair first makes the braid thicker and neater.
What to ask for Hair stretched, one large braid around the hairline like a crown, or two Dutch braids meeting at the back, ends tucked in.
French braids
French braids (Dutch braids, when the strands cross under) run from the forehead to the nape in two neat rows. Added hair makes them longer and thicker. They’re a good gym and swimming style for a week or two.
What to ask for Two feed-in braids from the hairline to the nape, added hair to the length I want, even partings down the center.
Side braid
Long braids swept over one shoulder, or a single braid down one side, draw the eye to the face. With box braids it’s a change of look without redoing anything. Swap sides now and then so one side of the scalp doesn’t take all the weight.
What to ask for Medium knotless braids, waist length, with a deep side part so the braids fall over one shoulder.
Blonde cornrows
Blonde braiding hair in cornrows shows every pattern line. Honey and ash blonde both work on dark skin. A zigzag or curved pattern is where blonde really pays off.
What to ask for Cornrows with blonde braiding hair, a curved or zigzag pattern, the ends braided long and sealed.
Braided mohawk
The sides are cornrowed up and the braids meet in a raised strip down the center. It’s bold from every angle, and the sides stay neat for a couple of weeks. Leave out curls along the top for a softer version.
What to ask for Cornrows on both sides braided up toward the center, a high braided strip from front to nape, added hair for height.
Box braids and braid extensions
Box braids
Box braids are individual braids with added hair. Each starts from a square section, so the parts make a grid. Medium braids last four to eight weeks, and you can put them up, down or to the side. Knotless box braids start with your own hair and feed the extension in, so there’s less pull at the root, and our knotless braids guide covers them in full.
What to ask for Medium box braids, knotless at the root, square parts, mid-back length, ends dipped in hot water to seal.
Box braid bun
Box braids wound into a high bun are the neat, office-friendly version of long braids. The bun takes the weight off your neck. Leave the braids a little looser at the root if you plan to wear it up a lot.
What to ask for Small or medium box braids, not tight at the edges, long enough to wind into a high bun.
Box braids into space buns
Box braids divided in two and wound into buns on each side of a center part make space buns with length. The braids below hang free. It takes five minutes once the braids are in.
What to ask for Box braids with a clean center part, long enough to wind half of each side into a bun and leave the rest down.
Micro box braids
Micro braids are very small braids that behave almost like loose hair: they swing, and you can curl or pin them. They take many hours to install and a long time to take out. In return they last up to eight weeks.
What to ask for Micro knotless braids, very small parts, shoulder or bob length, sealed ends. Allow a full day.
Chunky braids
Jumbo braids are fast to install, often in two to four hours. They look bold from across the room. They’re heavy, so keep them to shoulder or mid-back length. Large parts show off a pattern at the scalp too.
What to ask for Jumbo box braids, large square or triangle parts, mid-back length, not tight at the root.
Colorful short box braids
Braiding hair comes in every color, so you can go red, pink, burgundy or a mix. Short braids suit bright colors, because the look is loud and light at once. Mix two shades of braiding hair for depth.
What to ask for Box braids in a colored braiding hair, one shade or two mixed, bob or shoulder length, sealed ends.
Crochet braids
Crochet braids are loose curls or twists hooked onto cornrows with a crochet needle. They install in a few hours and look like a full head of curls. Leave them in four to six weeks, and wash the scalp gently between the rows.
What to ask for Cornrows braided flat underneath, curly or wavy crochet hair looped in, shaped and trimmed to the length I want.
Yarn braids
Yarn braids use wool yarn instead of synthetic hair. The yarn is lighter and matte. The colors are bold, such as electric blue. The finish looks soft. They can shrink when wet, so dry them well.
What to ask for Box braids with yarn instead of braiding hair, in blue or the color I choose, bob to shoulder length.
Twists and locs
Two-strand twists
Two-strand twists use only your own hair, and they last one to three weeks. Wear them as they are, pin them up, or undo them for a twist-out. Smaller twists last longer and give a more defined twist-out.
What to ask for Two-strand twists on my own hair, medium size, square parts, a setting cream to hold.
Large twists
Large twists with added hair, passion or Senegalese, are quick to install and last four to eight weeks. Passion twists have a bohemian, curly finish. Senegalese twists are smooth and rope-like.
What to ask for Large passion twists with added hair, mid-back length, not tight at the root, ends left curly.
Flat twist with twist-out
Flat twists run along the scalp at the front and sides, and the ends are left to open into a twist-out on top. You get a neat front and a big, soft crown. It’s quicker than cornrows and gentle on the edges.
What to ask for Flat twists from the hairline toward the crown, the loose ends twisted and unravelled into a twist-out on top.
Flat twists
Flat twists are like cornrows made with two strands instead of three, so they sit flat but look softer. Curve them round the head into a low updo. They last a week or two on your own hair.
What to ask for Flat twists on my own hair, curved around the head and tucked into a low updo at the nape.
Locs and twists combo
Locs with twists, or two-strand twisted locs, add texture and hold a style well. Pull the locs into a high ponytail with a twisted section for a weekend look. Retwist the roots every four to eight weeks.
What to ask for A root retwist, then the locs styled into a high twisted ponytail with the front section twisted back.
Short locs
Short locs are the start of a long journey, and they have a look of their own. Locs take several months to a couple of years to mature, so enjoy the short stage. Two-strand twists at the start make the parts neat, and our guide to loc styles for women picks up where this look leaves off.
What to ask for Starter locs with two-strand twists, medium parts, shoulder length, retwisted every four to eight weeks.
Ponytails, hawks and head wraps
Frohawk
A frohawk keeps the natural curls tall along the center and pins or tapers the sides. Pin the sides flat with bobby pins, or braid them for a longer hold. It’s a great second-day style on curly hair.
What to ask for Sides pinned or flat-twisted up, curls left full along the center from front to nape, shaped round on top.
Fauxhawk
A fauxhawk is the same shape without cutting the sides: cornrows or pins hold them flat, and a big puff of natural hair rises down the middle. Decorate the braids with cuffs or beads.
What to ask for Cornrows on both sides braided toward the center, the middle section left loose and puffed up from front to back.
Low ponytail
A low ponytail at the nape, smooth on top and curly or braided below, works for the office and for a date. Lay the edges with a soft gel and a brush. Use a silk scrunchie so it doesn’t break the hair.
What to ask for Hair smoothed back with gel, a low ponytail at the nape, added curly hair for length if I want it.
Pineapple ponytail
A high curly ponytail sits right on top of the head, with the curls tumbling down. Braided sides or cornrows at the front make it neater. Add clip-in curls if your own hair isn’t long enough yet.
What to ask for Feed-in cornrows at the front and sides, a high ponytail at the crown with added curly hair to the length I want.
Head wrap
A head wrap covers the hair in fabric, a turban wrap or a scarf tied back. It protects the hair, saves a bad-hair day, and looks good with anything from denim to a dress. Choose silk or satin lining to protect the hair underneath.
What to ask for Flat twists or a low bun underneath so the wrap sits smooth, edges laid, a silk or satin scarf long enough to tie twice.
Scarf updo
A scarf tied around the head as a headband, with the curls puffed up on top, is part head wrap and part updo. Lay the edges, then knot the scarf at the nape or on top. The bright print does most of the work.
What to ask for Curls gathered up into a puff on top, edges laid, and a silk scarf tied as a wide headband around it.
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What counts as a protective style?
A protective style tucks away the ends of your hair so they aren’t rubbed, brushed and heat-styled every day. Box braids, cornrows, twists, locs and wigs all count, and so do buns and updos when they’re pinned rather than pulled tight. The idea is less daily handling, so the ends last longer.
The catch is tension. A style that pulls hard at the hairline can cause traction alopecia (hair loss at the edges). If your scalp hurts or bumps appear after a new install, it’s too tight: take it down, or ask the braider to loosen the edges.
Which hairstyle suits you?
The one that suits your hair type and your week. Hair on the curl chart runs from 1 (straight) to 4 (coily), and 4a to 4c are the tightest coils. The tighter the coil, the more a style like a twist-out or a braid-out defines it, and the more a wash-n-go shrinks.
Face shape matters less than people think. A side part or a half-up style breaks up a round face. A high puff or a top knot adds height to a short one. Buns and short cuts show off the cheekbones and the jaw, so they’re for when you want your face to be the point.
What to ask your braider or stylist
Bring two photos, one front and one back. Then tell them:
- Size of the braids or twists. Micro, small, medium, large or jumbo.
- Length. Shoulder, mid-back or waist. Longer braids are heavier.
- Parting. Square, triangle, heart or zigzag, and where the main part sits.
- Knotless or classic. Knotless is lighter at the root.
- Added hair. How much, what color, and whether the ends are curly.
- The edges. Say you want them loose.
How long do braids and twists last?
It depends on the style and the size. Box braids and knotless braids usually stay in four to eight weeks. Cornrows on your own hair last one to two weeks; with added hair, two to four. Two-strand twists last one to three weeks, and passion or Senegalese twists with added hair four to eight.
Take them out on time, even if they still look good. After eight weeks, new growth tangles with shed hair at the root and starts to lock. Detangle gently with conditioner before your next install, and give your scalp a week or so off between styles.
Braids or twists: which is better for natural hair?
Braids last longer and hold a sharper line. Twists are faster, lighter and easier to take down. Neither is better for your hair: the tension is what matters.
| Braids | Twists | |
|---|---|---|
| Made with | Three strands | Two strands |
| Install time | Longer | Shorter |
| How long they last | Four to eight weeks | One to three weeks on your own hair, four to eight with added hair |
| Look | Crisp, defined | Soft, rope-like |
| Take-down | Slower | Faster |
How do you protect your hair at night?
Sleep on silk or satin. A silk scarf, a satin bonnet or a satin pillowcase cuts the friction that dries out and breaks the hair. For curls, a loose pineapple on top of the head keeps them stretched until morning.
For braids and locs, wrap the whole head. A light oil on the scalp and a leave-in on the lengths every few days keep everything moisturized.
For more ideas, our guides to short hairstyles for Black women, braid types, loc styles and highlights on black hair pick up where this one stops.
Whatever you choose, look after your edges. A style can come out, and hair grows back, but a hairline pulled too tight for too long is slow to recover. If it hurts, it’s too tight.
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