You’ve saved the photo. Long hair, big bouncy layers, and those short pieces around the face that flip out like a pair of wings. Then you sit down, the stylist asks where you’d like the shortest layer to start, and “like the picture” suddenly doesn’t feel like much of an answer.
Here’s the good news: it comes down to one line. The short layers usually start somewhere between the cheekbones and the chin. Longer layers underneath keep your length. The whole look owes a debt to Farrah Fawcett’s feathered 70s hair (with a nod to the Rachel).
Below are 24 butterfly cuts by working stylists, long, short, with bangs and without, each shown twice. Every one ends on what to say in the chair, so you can pick a favorite and read it out.
Long butterfly haircuts
Long butterfly haircut
This is the classic version: long hair, and layers that start around the chin and keep going. Brunette with caramel balayage makes each step easy to read, and from the side the layers step down neatly toward the back. A big barrel curl, brushed out, gives it the swing.
What to ask for Butterfly layers with the shortest pieces at the chin, soft feathered layers through the length, and keep as much length at the back as possible.
Long blonde butterfly haircut
On ash blonde with a darker root, the layers read almost like highlights because each one catches the light at a different height. The shortest pieces sit around the cheekbones and sweep back, away from the face. With the root left dark, there’s no sharp regrowth line to chase.
What to ask for Long butterfly layers starting at the cheekbones, face-framing pieces blended into the length, and a soft, feathered finish rather than blunt ends.
Wavy butterfly haircut
On natural waves the butterfly layers do half the styling for you. The face-framing starts around the chin. Each wave breaks at a different height, which makes the hair look full without a blowout. Scrunch in a mousse and let it air-dry, or loosen the waves with a wide wand.
What to ask for A mid-length butterfly cut for wavy hair, face-framing layers from the chin, soft layers through the back, and the length kept past the shoulders.
Butterfly layers, styled and unstyled
Here’s the question nobody asks until after the cut: what does it look like when you don’t blow it out? The first photo is the full round-brush finish. The second is the same cut left to dry, and you can see the layers still break up the length, just with less swing. On thick hair like this, that’s a cut that still works on a lazy day.
What to ask for Butterfly layers through the back as well as the front, long layers that start around the shoulder blades, and enough weight taken out that it moves when it air-dries.
Long brunette butterfly haircut
Brunette hair shows the shape of a butterfly cut clearly, because there’s no color doing the work for it. The front layers start at the cheekbones and curve out, and the length runs well down the back. Thick, straight-to-wavy hair that needs some weight taken out is the natural fit.
What to ask for A long butterfly cut with face-framing layers from the cheekbones, longer layers blended in from the chin down, and the length kept past the chest.
Brunette butterfly haircut with babylights
Fine babylights through brunette hair catch the light on every wave of this butterfly cut. The face-framing layers start around the chin and fall in loose curls. Seen in profile, the layers step down neatly toward the back.
What to ask for A long butterfly cut with face-framing layers from the chin, loose curled layers through the length, and fine babylights woven through the brunette.
Soft brunette butterfly haircut
A softer take for anyone who wants the shape without much drama. The face-framing starts around the chin, and the long layers are blended so the steps barely show. Loose waves from a large barrel keep it relaxed.
What to ask for Soft butterfly layers starting at the chin, long blended layers through the length, and loose waves to finish.
Butterfly haircut with balayage
Balayage and butterfly layers were made for each other. The lighter ends sit on the outside of each layer, so the more the hair flicks out, the more color you see. Style it in big, loose curls with a wand or rollers for the full effect.
What to ask for Butterfly layers from the chin down, cut to show the lighter ends, with long, soft face-framing pieces and a curled finish.
Butterfly haircut with face-framing highlights
Light blonde pieces around the face sit right where the shortest layers fall, so the color and the cut frame your face together. The rest of the hair stays a shade darker for depth. A round-brush blowout curls the ends away from the face.
What to ask for Butterfly layers with the shortest pieces at the cheekbones, bright blonde highlights around the face, and a round-brush blowout with the ends turned out.
Butterfly haircut for thick hair
On thick hair a butterfly cut earns its keep, since the layers take out bulk without taking off length. From the back, the shape is all in the ends. They flick out in tiers instead of hanging in one heavy block. Expect it to feel lighter the minute you leave the chair.
What to ask for Long butterfly layers cut through the back to remove bulk, the length kept, and the ends feathered so they curl outward when blow-dried.
Dark butterfly blowout
On dark hair, a big round-brush blowout turns every layer into a glossy curl. The face-framing starts just below the chin, and the ends roll outward in loose waves. Both photos show the same finish on black and on dark brown hair.
What to ask for A long butterfly cut with face-framing layers from just below the chin, rounded ends, and a big, bouncy round-brush blowout.
Bouncy butterfly blowout
This is the butterfly cut dressed up: a big round-brush blowout that turns every layer into a curl. On blonde, the rolled ends and the face-framing pieces catch the light from every angle. Velcro rollers in the front while you get ready will hold that swing through the evening.
What to ask for A butterfly cut just past the shoulders, face-framing layers from the cheekbones, rounded ends, and a bouncy round-brush blowout.
Butterfly haircuts with bangs
Butterfly haircut with curtain bangs
Curtain bangs and butterfly layers are a natural pair. The bangs are parted in the middle and swept to both sides, so they lead straight into the face-framing layers. On dark hair the effect is sleek.
What to ask for Butterfly layers with curtain bangs parted in the middle, cut to the cheekbones, blended into the face-framing layers, and the length kept below the chest.
Long black butterfly haircut with bangs
Full bangs and long black layers make a bolder version of the look. The bangs are cut to the brows and blend into face-framing pieces at the cheekbones, and the length runs past the chest. On black hair, the curled ends give it plenty of shine.
What to ask for Brow-length bangs blended into face-framing layers at the cheekbones, long butterfly layers past the chest, and curled ends.
Medium butterfly haircut with bangs
Here the layers stop around the collarbone, and soft bangs break up the front. It’s a softer take on the look, halfway between a butterfly cut and a shag. Blow-dry the bangs first, while they’re still damp, or they’ll dry wherever they like.
What to ask for A collarbone-length butterfly cut with soft bangs, face-framing layers from the cheekbones, and soft, piecey ends.
Butterfly bob with bangs
Take the butterfly idea down to jaw length and you get this: a bob with bangs that melt into short layers at the sides. The ends flip out rather than under. It’s a good way to try the look if you’ve already gone short.
What to ask for A jaw-length bob with butterfly layers around the face, full bangs blended into the sides, and the ends cut to flick out.
Medium and shoulder-length butterfly haircuts
Shoulder-length butterfly haircut
On black hair that stops at the shoulders, the layers flip up and out. That flip gives this one its bounce. With shorter hair the wings sit closer together, and the shape reads as fuller. A round brush and a few Velcro rollers do most of the work.
What to ask for A shoulder-length butterfly cut, face-framing layers from the chin, the ends cut to flip out, and a bouncy blow-dry.
Butterfly lob
A lob, short for long bob, sits on the shoulders, and this one keeps its line at the back with short pieces at the front. Worn straight, it looks polished, and the front layers stop it looking like a plain bob. It’s a gentle first step if you’ve never had layers.
What to ask for A shoulder-length lob with butterfly layers at the front only, starting at the chin, and a straight, smooth finish.
Short butterfly haircuts and butterfly bobs
Short butterfly haircut
A short butterfly haircut is a bob with the wings cut in: a deep side part, short layers at the front and ends that curve toward the jaw. It keeps the bounce of the long version at a length you can blow-dry in a few minutes. On dark hair the curve of each layer shows clearly.
What to ask for A jaw-length bob with a deep side part, short butterfly layers at the front, and the ends rounded under at the jaw.
Blonde butterfly bob
Front and back, this one shows how a short butterfly cut is built: bangs at the front, layers that flick out at the sides, and a softly stacked back. On pale blonde the layers look airy. Even a little messy, the cut looks deliberate.
What to ask for A blonde bob with soft bangs, short butterfly layers flicked out at the sides, and gentle layering through the back.
Messy short butterfly cut
Tousled, just above the shoulders, with a middle part and layers that go in every direction. There’s no neat blowout here. A sea salt or texture spray and a quick scrunch will get you there.
What to ask for A short butterfly cut just above the shoulders, a middle part, textured layers around the face and a messy, undone finish.
Butterfly pixie
At the short end of the range, this is a pixie or a bixie (a pixie grown toward a bob) with layers cut to fly out at the sides and a long front that sweeps across. Try it if you’re already short and want some movement. A little pomade on the ends separates the layers.
What to ask for A layered pixie with a long, sweeping front, short butterfly layers at the sides, and a textured finish.
Butterfly haircuts for straight hair
Butterfly haircut for straight hair
Thick, straight hair tends to hang flat, and wispy face-framing layers give it lift and shape. This version keeps the layers light and feathered so they fall around the face. Tuck one side behind the ear for a different look.
What to ask for A long butterfly cut for straight hair, wispy face-framing layers from the cheekbones, and soft, feathered layers through the length.
Sleek straight butterfly haircut
Straight hair shows every line of a cut, so this version keeps the layers at the front and lets the rest fall smooth. The face-framing pieces start around the chin and curve in. Wear it sleek with a flat iron, or give it a quick blowout.
What to ask for Long butterfly layers concentrated around the face, starting at the chin, with long, smooth layers through the back.
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What is a butterfly haircut?
A butterfly haircut pairs short, face-framing layers with longer layers underneath, so your hair looks short around the face and keeps its length at the back. The short layers usually start around the cheekbones or chin, often about an inch below the chin, and they’re cut soft and feathered rather than choppy.
The name comes from the way the layers fan out like a pair of wings. Hairstylist Sunnie Brook is credited with it, and her clients Jenna Ortega and Elisabeth Moss have both worn the cut. You’ll sometimes see it called the octopus haircut too.
It isn’t brand new. Davines calls it a cross between a 1970s shag and a 1990s Rachel, and the feathered wings go straight back to Farrah Fawcett in Charlie’s Angels. The Rachel, Jennifer Aniston’s cut as Rachel Green on Friends, was a shorter chop. The butterfly borrows its face-framing without asking you to cut to your chin.
Who suits a butterfly haircut?
A butterfly haircut suits medium to thick hair best. The layers take out bulk and add movement, and thick hair has enough weight to hold the shape. On fine hair, too many layers can make it look thinner, so ask for a softer version with gentler face-framing.
Hair texture changes what the cut does. On straight hair the layers add lift and dimension. On wavy hair they show off the wave. On curly hair they take out weight and help define the curl pattern, so a stylist who knows curls is worth seeking out.
Davines finds it especially flattering on oval and square faces, though it works on every face shape with small changes. With a round face, ask for side-swept face-framing layers. With a heart-shaped face, curtain bangs balance the forehead.
Length matters too. The classic version needs hair at least to the shoulders, although a stylist can adapt the effect to a bob or even a pixie, as the short looks above show.
What to ask your stylist for
Start with where you want the shortest layer to fall, because that decides the whole cut. Around the cheekbones gives you a dramatic frame, while around the chin, or an inch below it, is softer and easier to grow out.
Then say how much length you want to keep at the back, and ask for soft, feathered layers rather than choppy ones. If you want bangs, say which kind: curtain bangs parted in the middle, wispy bangs, or none at all.
Bring photos, ideally from the front and the back. Every look above ends on its own ask line, so you can read one out word for word.
How much upkeep does a butterfly haircut take?
Plan on a trim every six to eight weeks to keep the shape crisp. If you’re growing it out, you can stretch that to ten to twelve weeks, and Davines puts the regular interval at about 12 weeks. The good news is that the layers grow out gently, with no awkward line.
The styling takes more time than the trims. The look in most photos is a blowout: heat protectant, a texturizing spray, a large round brush focused on lift at the roots, then Velcro rollers to set the front layers away from your face. A flexible hairspray holds it, and dry shampoo between washes keeps the lift going.
What’s the difference between a butterfly haircut and layers?
A butterfly haircut is a kind of layered cut with a very specific shape: short layers concentrated around the face and long layers everywhere else. Regular layers can be spread evenly through the hair, or kept long, without that dramatic frame at the front.
| Cut | Where the short layers sit | The finish |
|---|---|---|
| Butterfly haircut | Around the face, from the cheekbones or chin | Soft and feathered, the length kept |
| Regular layers | Anywhere, often spread evenly | Varies, from subtle to heavy |
| Wolf cut | Through the crown and sides | Heavier and blunter, part shag and part mullet |
Is a butterfly haircut the same as a wolf cut?
No. A wolf cut is more dramatic, with heavier, blunter layers that mix a shag and a mullet. A butterfly haircut is softer and more polished, with gentler transitions between the layers and a touch of 90s glamour. If you like volume but don’t want the choppy, lived-in look, the butterfly is the one to ask for.
Who should not get a butterfly cut?
Very fine or thin hair is the main reason to think twice, because a lot of layering can make it look sparser. A softer version with fewer, gentler layers is the safer ask. The cut also rewards a blow-dry, so if you never style your hair, expect it to look more like plain long layers on most days.
How do you style a butterfly haircut?
Blow-dry it with a large round brush, working in sections and focusing on lift at the roots, then roll the front layers away from your face with Velcro rollers while you finish getting ready. A flexible hairspray sets it.
No heat? Wavy and curly hair can air-dry with a mousse or texturizing product scrunched in, and the layers will still break up the length, as the unstyled photo above shows.
How long does a butterfly haircut last?
A butterfly cut holds its shape for about six to eight weeks between trims. Hair grows about half an inch a month, so after two or three months the shortest layers have dropped toward the jaw and the frame softens. Leave it longer and the layers blend into ordinary long layers, with no awkward stage in between.
If you’d like to see the butterfly next to lobs, shags and curtain bangs before you decide, browse our shoulder-length hairstyles guide. It has 69 more medium cuts.
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