Seiko adds olive and khaki dials to 5 Sports Field GMT at $450

Seiko has added two earthy colorways to its 5 Sports Field GMT series: the HDB001 with a dark olive green dial and the HDB002 with a khaki beige one. Both join the permanent collection, are available now and cost $450, or EUR 470.

They follow the SSK023, in steel with a black dial, and the SSK025, which has a black-coated case. That inaugural pair introduced the Field GMT with a fixed 24-hour bezel and an Explorer II vibe, but offered little variety. The new references answer that with color.

The base concept has not changed. Despite the new HDB reference numbers, the case is identical to that of the SSK023 and SSK025, compact and robust. New this year are the dials, which replace black with colors that make sense for an exploration watch.

What the new dials look like

Both tones give the collection a clear adventure vibe and more appeal than the classic black dial. Both dials keep the grained, matte surface of the earlier pair.

Raised luminous markers, an additional 13-24-hour scale and a framed date window complete the dial layout.

The 24-hour GMT hand is red-toned. It can be adjusted independently in one-hour increments, which makes it a caller or office-style function and is expected in this entry-level segment. Against an olive or khaki dial, the red hand is the one splash of contrast.

The steel case measures 39.4mm in diameter and 13.6mm in thickness, and it is 47.9mm lug-to-lug. Those dimensions are shared by the HDB001, the HDB002 and the black SSK023 and SSK025 that came before them, since the case has not been redesigned.

On both references the steel is left untreated, with brushed and polished surfaces. It is topped by a fixed bezel with a 24-hour scale and radial brushing, which is where the Explorer II comparison comes from.

A curved Hardlex crystal covers the dial, and sapphire is still absent, which is worth weighing against the $450 price. Water resistance is a comfortable 100m, sufficient for an exploration watch, which is the context the Field GMT is built for.

Inside is the caliber 4R34, the GMT evolution of the tried-and-tested caliber 4R36. This automatic movement beats at 3Hz and stores about 41 hours of power reserve. It powers both the HDB001 and the HDB002, including the red-toned, independently adjustable GMT hand.

Both editions are worn on a 5-link, brushed steel bracelet with a folding clasp.

The 5 Sports lineage behind it

The 5 Sports series is Seiko's entry-level collection, primarily known for SKX-inspired, dive-oriented watches and numerous collaborations. Seiko later expanded it, offering different styles and applications: field watches, vintage re-editions and dressier, cleaner watches, plus one of the most practical complications, a GMT function.

The GMT function first appeared in the SKX series before reaching the Field series. With the 5 Sports Style GMT collection, Seiko introduced an accessible crossover watch, combining a diver's look with a GMT complication; the Field series later applied the same formula to an exploration watch.

We reviewed the Bulova Wilton GMT as an affordable true GMT for stylish watch lovers; the Seiko is another accessible route to the complication, with a fixed 24-hour bezel and a caller or office-style hand.

For field watches more broadly, our guide to the best field watches covers stylish, trustworthy names with pedigree, and we reviewed the Ridge Titanium Field Watch, a field watch in titanium. The Seiko adds a GMT hand and 100m of water resistance to that brief, at $450.

Seiko also makes Grand Seiko, which our ranking of the best luxury watch brands names among the attainable picks with Tudor and NOMOS Glashütte. The two new Field GMT references are permanent-collection watches, and Seiko points buyers to seikowatches.com for more details on the HDB001 and HDB002.