Breguet marks Marine anniversary with new hand-guilloché dials

Breguet has released new versions of the Marine 5517 and the Marine Chronographe 5527, giving both models hand-guilloché dials cut in a pattern the maison calls Quai de l'Horloge. The motif traces the contours of Paris's Île de la Cité and Île Saint-Louis alongside the movement of water.

The Marine collection carries a specific weight for the house. Breguet was appointed Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy in 1815 under founder Abraham-Louis Breguet, and the new dials keep that maritime line running through both the three-hand model and the flyback chronograph.

Breguet is one of the oldest watchmaking houses still working, founded in Paris in 1775 by a founder who patented the tourbillon and set case and dial forms still standard across the industry today. That history runs directly through the Marine line's own numerals and applied indices.

On the Marine 5517, the date window has been moved to 6 o'clock to improve the dial's symmetry, a change paired with a gold applique at 12 o'clock. The case stays at 40mm, and the model keeps its three-hand display across white gold, rose gold and titanium.

Each metal gets its own dial color: ice-blue on the white-gold edition, black on rose gold, and blue on titanium, all cut with Breguet numerals and the maison's distinctive apple-shaped hands. A seconds-hand counterweight shaped like the nautical Bravo flag continues the maritime references across all three versions.

Other maritime cues carry across the range: a wave-shaped crown guard, and a gold oscillating weight visible through the sapphire caseback and shaped in reference to a ship's rudder. The Marine 5517 runs on Breguet's self-winding Calibre 777A, at 4 Hz with a 55-hour power reserve.

The Marine Chronographe 5527 is larger, at 42.3mm, and builds the same dial language around a flyback chronograph function. It moves the elapsed-minutes and small-seconds counters to 3 and 9 o'clock, with the date positioned at 6 o'clock to match the 5517's revised layout.

Its dial appears in a blue gradient on both the white-gold and rose-gold versions, and in a grey gradient on titanium. Power comes from the automatic Calibre 582QA, which pairs the flyback chronograph with a 48-hour reserve, a shorter figure than the simpler 5517's movement.

Both models are water-resistant to 100 meters and expose their movements through sapphire casebacks. Neither figure changes across the metal or dial options, so the difference between the two references comes down to case size, complication and the finish applied to each guilloché dial.

Pricing spans a wide range depending on metal and bracelet choice. The Marine 5517 starts at $26,400 in titanium on rubber, rising to $30,000 on a titanium bracelet, then to $48,900 for white or rose gold on rubber and $80,300 for either gold version on a bracelet.

The Marine Chronographe 5527 costs more across the board. Titanium starts at $33,000 on rubber and $36,600 on bracelet, while the gold versions run from $59,400 on rubber up to $93,900 on a bracelet, the highest price point across either new reference.

We covered the two references when they were first refreshed with new dials, at prices that ran as high as $93,000, and this release keeps both models in the same bracket while adding the Quai de l'Horloge treatment across gold and titanium cases alike.

The Quai de l'Horloge guilloché was first introduced for Breguet's 250th anniversary, and its return here on a production line rather than a single commemorative piece suggests the maison intends the motif as a recurring signature across the Marine collection rather than a one-off.

Breguet's own reference point for hand-guilloché work also runs through smaller pieces: the maison's Classique pocket watches carry gold Breguet numerals of the same style now cut into the Marine dials, a detail our guide to luxury pocket watches has tracked across the house's current catalogue.

Breguet has not indicated whether the Quai de l'Horloge dial will extend to other collections beyond Marine, nor whether further case sizes or metals are planned. For now, the pattern remains specific to these two references and their existing range of dial colors.