Jaeger-LeCoultre brings the Master Ultra Thin Moon back in 36mm pink gold

Jaeger-LeCoultre has added the Master Ultra Thin Moon in a 36mm 18k pink gold case, bringing a gold metal to the compact size. The watch joins the permanent collection and is priced at €23,900, CHF 19,800 or $23,100.

That price is about €4,500 below the 39mm gold editions, which carried the same movement in a larger case. For years the moon-and-date model lived almost entirely at 39mm, a diameter the brand used across steel, gold and, more recently, a grained salmon dial.

The Master Ultra Thin Moon is among the maison's most classic references, with a balanced, discreet design that has been around for many years. The compact 36mm steel version returned a couple of years ago, and the pink gold case now follows it.

Every surface of the 9.3mm-thick pink gold case is polished, with a smooth bezel and long, curving lugs that give it a classic dress watch look. Sapphire crystals cover both sides of the watch, and water-resistance is rated at 50m.

The dial is silver-colored and sunray-brushed, with gold-colored hardware throughout. Gold-colored Dauphine hands and trapezoidal hour markers run over a pearl-like minute track. Nothing on it is a surprise, which suits a dress watch.

Because the smaller case houses the same movement as the 39mm model, the sub-dial at six o'clock, which pairs the moon phase with a date by hand, is closer to the edge of the dial. No six o'clock marker is required anymore.

What is inside the case

Inside is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 925, unchanged from the larger edition. The modern movement runs at 4Hz and holds a 70-hour power reserve, an improvement over older generations of this watch. It remains one of the mainstays of the brand's collection.

The calibre is decorated with Côtes de Genève, bevelled bridges and blue screws, finished with an openworked 22k pink gold rotor bearing the JL logo. Our guide to gold karats explains why 22k is a softer, richer alloy than the 18k used for the case.

The watch is worn on a black alligator leather strap with a pin buckle. Quick-release on the strap makes it easy to interchange, so a second strap can change the character of the watch in seconds.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is known for the Reverso and the Memovox, but the Master collection belongs on that list too. The Master Control line debuted in 1992, and the slimmer Master Ultra Thin followed as a more elegant, more slender sibling.

The moon-and-date model has long been the sweet spot of the Master range, combining refined style with appealing complications. The maison also makes pieces at the far end of the market: the Hybris Mechanica Grande Sonnerie costs $2.5 million.

The pink gold 36mm edition is built for those who found the 39mm gold watch never quite right. The case was never large, but a gold watch seemed to want the more compact, more old-school proportions the steel model already had.

When we compared rectangular dress watches for our guide to Cartier Tank alternatives, we found the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso among the closest matches by case shape. The Master Ultra Thin Moon is the round, slender alternative from the same house.

Our best watches for women list includes the Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Reine, built around the Calibre 101 movement Queen Elizabeth II wore at her 1953 coronation. The new 36mm size gives the maison another compact gold option beside it.

Our gift guide for men names a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso among its no-limit picks. At $23,100 the Master Ultra Thin Moon in pink gold is a different kind of gift: round, slim and quietly complicated.

The Master Ultra Thin Moon 36mm Pink Gold is available now from the permanent collection, with pricing set in euros, Swiss francs and dollars. Further details are on the Jaeger-LeCoultre website at www.jaeger-lecoultre.com.