Favre Leuba adds black and blue dials to the Harpoon Revival, at CHF 1,800

Favre Leuba has expanded its Harpoon Revival series with two new dial colors, black and dark blue, joining the grey version the brand introduced earlier this year. All three are now part of the permanent collection, and all three carry the same CHF 1,800 price, which converts to roughly €2,100, US$2,300 and £1,800 in other markets.

The Harpoon nameplate dates to 1966, and Favre Leuba built the reissue to mark that original's 60th anniversary this year, keeping its compact proportions almost exactly: a 36.8mm case diameter, a 43.5mm lug-to-lug length and a 10mm thickness.

The grey dial arrived at Watches and Wonders earlier in the year as a close match to the 1966 dial color. Black and blue followed afterward, each with a sunray-brushed finish and a white inner minute track that gives the dials what one review called a tuxedo effect.

What the dial and case carry over

The dial layout is unchanged across all three colors: applied, horizontally oriented hour markers at 12, 6 and 9 o'clock, a framed date window at 3 o'clock and a stylized Harpoon signature echoing the 1966 model's typography. The hour markers are rhodium-plated and the hands are filled with Super-LumiNova C1 X2 GL.

The case is polished steel with a domed sapphire crystal shaped to mimic the vintage hesalite crystal of the original. The caseback is solid, screwed steel, carrying a medallion with Favre Leuba's hourglass emblem and period-correct typography. Water resistance is rated to 50m.

Inside is an automatic caliber the brand calls the FLD034 internally, built by La Joux-Perret as the G100. One review describes it as based on the Miyota 9 Series architecture and re-engineered in Switzerland; the movement runs at 4Hz with 24 jewels and a 68-hour power reserve, and measures 25.6 by 4.45mm.

Both new editions come on leather straps, black for the black dial and brown for the blue, each secured by a stainless steel pin buckle bearing the Favre Leuba signature. The strap system allows the wearer to swap colors without tools, a detail carried over from the grey launch model.

What the watch costs where

Pricing is consistent across the three colors at CHF 1,800, and Favre Leuba has not indicated any planned increase tied to the new dial options. The G100 caliber inside is pitched as an alternative to workhorse movements like the ETA 2824 and Sellita SW200, the standard reference points for automatics in this bracket.

Favre Leuba was founded in 1737 in Le Locle, making it one of the oldest Swiss watchmaking names still operating. The brand underwent a global relaunch in 2024 under chief executive Patrik P. Hoffmann, who has since overseen a steady run of reissues drawn from the company's archives.

Alongside the Harpoon Revival, Hoffmann's team has reintroduced the Deep Raider, Chief and Sea Sky Revival collections, all pitched at the more robust end of the range. A dressier 1737 Triple Calendar has also launched, positioning the Harpoon Revival as the brand's most compact and classically styled current model within our coverage of style.

Reviewers who compared the reissue against an original 1966 Harpoon side by side found the modern version stays close to the source, though the peripheral minute track is simplified and the luminous plots seen on the vintage dial have been dropped. The three-row steel bracelet the original wore has not been reintroduced.

We have tracked a similar pattern of archive-driven relaunches elsewhere in the category, including Grand Seiko's revival of its first manual-winding 9S dial as a limited run of 600 pieces, a comparable case of a heritage maker mining its own back catalog for a modern reissue.

Favre Leuba has not announced further dial colors or case-material variants for the Harpoon Revival beyond the current grey, black and blue lineup, and no metal bracelet option has been confirmed despite reviewer interest in seeing one alongside the leather strap.

The black and blue editions are available now as part of the permanent collection rather than as limited runs, so the Harpoon Revival is built to stay in Favre Leuba's catalog beyond the 1966 model's 60th-anniversary year that prompted the original grey launch.