Ultimate Guide To The Different Suit Styles For Men

In popular culture, TV fashion often becomes the street style. And no one does it better than James Bond when we talk about suits.

Walking into any James Bond movie, you don’t need to be a cinematic savant to predict that five things will happen: there will be shaking of martinis, wooing of sexy women, thwarting of villains, a little driving of cool cars, and men will drift out of theatres inspired to dress in sophistication and style.  

You often wonder how he gets so much movement in his suits without popping seams. 

The simple answer: He wears the best stuff.

At Luxe Digital, we understand expert tailoring and craftsmanship. And even if you are a suit purist, we will provide pointers that will help you see things from a different light.

Now, let us delve into what might be your ultimate guide to the different suit styles for men. 

Three types of suits 

The two-piece suit comprises two matching clothing pieces – trousers and a blazer or jacket. It is generally regarded as a more casual option and, therefore, ideal for non-formal occasions. It is the most versatile suit type, as you can easily dress it up or down.

As the name suggests, the tree-piece suit consists of three matching pieces – a jacket, trousers, and a waistcoat. A three-piece is most befitting for formal events and business meetings. 

Changing the waistcoat to a different color, nod, or style is also an option to make your style more dashing. And when you need to tone down your dressiness, you can eliminate the waistcoat. 

A tuxedo is the most formal men’s suit and works well for special occasions such as weddings, award ceremonies, or black-tie events. The distinguishing trait is the satin covering on the lapels, buttons, pocket trims, and sometimes on the trouser side stripes.

Double-breasted suits vs. single-breasted suits 

The single-breasted suit has a single row of buttons on the jacket without an overlap. The single row gives a clean, streamlined look that makes us look taller and slimmer. No wonder it is the most common suit style for men. 

Most single-breasted suits have two buttons, but you can find some with one or three. The general rule of thumb is that the fewer the buttons, the more casual the suit is.

The double-breasted suit features two vertical rows of buttons on either side of the jacket. They mostly come with 4, 6, or 8 buttons (6 being the most common). The extra buttons drift the focal point towards the sides, making an illusion of a wider frame. It is, therefore, a favorite for slimmer men to make their chests appear broader and more commanding. The double-breasted is a formal suit but also a staple for fashion-forward men. 

Did you know that there are strict rules for buttoning your suit jacket? More on that in a minute.

Suit fits 

The slim fit is narrow at the waist and chest, hugging the body. It is created with a precise cut, a shorter jacket, a smaller lapel, slim pants, and a cropped leg opening. The output is a more casual suit perfect for men with a thinner frame – not necessarily an athletic build. 

The classic fit is comfortable and breathable without being loose. It tailors the jacket to reach the hips and be more relaxed at the waist and chest; the pants get a looser fit with a straight opening on the leg. This fit will never go out of style; you can wear it on the job and still rock it for a classic weekend look.

The modern fit is a compromise between the other two suit styles for men. It has fair tapering on the jacket, and the trousers sit well on the waist but trim down to the thighs and the hips. It’s a tight look with enough breathing space.  

Suit lapels 

The notch lapel is the most preferred because it is simple and stylish. It forms a V-shape, with a visible indent where the jacket meets the collar. It is a sharp and classic look and a good bet if you are on the fence about choosing a lapel.

The peak lapel is known for its dramatic and unique upgrade from the notch lapel. It forms a V-shape at the tip of the collar, but at the shoulders, it has upward-pointing edges that look like mountain peaks, as sharp as the men who wear them.

You’d first picture a black tie event when you see a shawl lapel. The collar is a continuous fabric that goes smoothly around the neck with rounded edges. It gives the vibes of charm and sophistication. It is a timeless look with dinner jackets and formal wear. 

Suit fabrics

Choosing a suit fabric mainly depends on the price, weather, and the occasion. Several other minor factors also come into play, as we see below.

Wool is the most common suit fabric because it is light and fluffy, thus very breathable and comfortable. Its good qualities include durability, water resistance, wrinkle resistance, and heat insulation.

Linen is a lightweight, elegant material for suits for events such as destination weddings and proms.  Linen fabric suits hot days and when you want to elevate your style. It can also withstand a lot of damage but creases easily. 

There is a high probability that the first average suit you bump into on the street is made from cotton. They are loved for their simplistic and versatile looks. Cotton is suitable for warmer days, affordable, and produces neat creases when ironed. 

Suit vents

The center vent is a single slit at the center back of the blazer. It is used to improve ease of movement and comfort. It can, however, part when you pocket and expose your back. Also, note that a jacket is a wrong fit if it is parted without your hands being in your pocket.

Double vents have two slits on either side of the back of the jacket. It improves flexibility even further by reducing creasing and discomfort when seated. It is an expensive vent option but worth the investment because it delivers a slimmer, more sophisticated look. 

Ventless is famous for those targeting a slimmer tailored look, making it prevalent on the tuxedos. It outlines your figure, hugging your torso and forming a silhouette. All these, however, come at the expense of comfort, movement room, and a likelihood of creasing. 

Pocket styles 

Patch pockets are created from separate clothing and externally sewn on the blazer. The result is a casual suit piece with a touch of style. The pocket is very functional when sorting things like keys, phones, cash, etc.

Flap pocket – here, the pocket is internal, but a rectangular flap covers its opening. The patch color matches that of the suit. This pocket works for formal suits but can also appear in business and sports jackets.

Jet pocket – it has an internal pocket but without a flap. It is minimalistic and clean, suitable for formal suits for men.

Welt pocket – this is the breast pocket of the suit. Some place the handkerchief here. It has a structure similar to the jet pocket. Both are considered very formal and fit for evening wear.

Rules for buttoning your suit 

You will be surprised with how firm the suit buttoning code of conduct is. Ensure they are on your fingertips before you are deemed a sartorial misfit.

For the single-breasted suit with one button, fasten it when standing and unbutton it when seated. 

For two buttons, button the top only when standing and unbutton it when sitting; never fasten the bottom button. 

For the one with three buttons, always button the middle one and optionally the first one. But, when seated, undo all the buttons.

The rules for the double-breasted suits are simple. Never fasten the lower button. Always secure the top button and the middle button. You can leave them fastened when sitting. 

Suit pants 

Flat fronts are the standard pants for most people. The fabric on the front of the trousers is flat down. It makes the wearer bear a slender silhouette look.

Pleated pants have creases on both sides of the front, making a folded appearance. It is a little loose in the middle and should be worn slightly above the hips so it doesn’t billow out at the thighs. It is roomy enough for larger people or those with a hard-earned belly.

Cuffed and hemmed pants are two styles at the bottom of the pants. The hemmed option has the fabric turned inside, while the cuffed one is turned outside. Flat-front pants are often hemmed, and pleated pants are cuffed.

Suit colors 

Suit colors often revolve around timeless neutrals that match effortlessly and complement people of different skin tones. The black suit is the epitome of formality and a staple option in every wardrobe – plus, it will never go out of style. 

Navy is the king of versatility; it can deliver both office and casual looks and match with many other colors and patterns. Blue and grey are good for a contemporary wardrobe. 

New emergent colors are also good options. For example, Tan delivers a vintage and countryside appeal, beige is a summer piece and a wedding favorite, and burgundy is a good alternative for elegance. 

Frequently asked questions about suit styles