Bulgari handed its Octo Finissimo to the independent watchmaker Vianney Halter for the Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter. The dial borrows the split, dial-within-dial display of Halter's own Antiqua. It reads more like an instrument panel than a watch face. It runs on a newly developed movement with GMT functionality set through pushers on the left case side.
Bulgari limited the collaboration to 30 pieces in titanium at CHF 70,000 and 15 pieces in gold at CHF 108,000. The case is 9.7mm thin with four opaline dials, blue hands and a rotor engraved with Halter's signature. The 50-component watch required dedicated manufacturing tools for some miniaturized parts, with a 60-hour power reserve.
Girard-Perregaux introduced the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon, a late addition to the Laureato's fiftieth anniversary. That milestone fell last year. It houses a new in-house micro-rotor movement that exposes its tourbillon escapement at the dial's center, in a 39mm white gold case with an integrated bracelet and micro-adjustable folding clasp.
The Laureato Fifty Tourbillon comes with a hobnail dial in either blue Grand Feu or salmon over rose gold, priced at $100,000 and $95,600 respectively. Zenith introduced the Chronomaster Solo Sport, an everyday watch built on the Chronomaster Sport's El Primero foundation. It has a stainless steel case, full ceramic rotating bezel and the Calibre El Primero 3620.
The Zenith comes in three time-and-date configurations plus a No-Date version, priced at CHF 8,900 and CHF 9,900. Doxa brought titanium into its permanent collection with the SUB 300 Ti5, launching in five references across the brand's signature colors. This includes a WhitePearl edition with a fully luminous dial.
The Doxa retains the helmet-shaped case, double-signed bezel and oversized minute hand, running a Sellita SW200 automatic on a Dive Flex rubber strap, priced at EUR 2,990. M.A.D.Editions marked its third chapter with the M.A.D.3, developed with independent watchmaker Vincent Calabrese and built around his Baladin concept.
Time on the M.A.D.3 is indicated with a rotating disc revealing a jumping hour, a triangular pointer for trailing minutes and a central seconds hand. Using a La Joux-Perret G111 movement with a special module on top, it is priced at CHF 2,900. The pink version is reserved for MB&F and M.A.D. Tribe members.
The blue version of the M.A.D.3 is distributed through the brand's raffle system. De Bethune showed the DB25 Digitale, featuring a random guilloché pattern mimicking the rippling of Lake Geneva. A blued titanium Starry Varius center, a jumping hour and a spherical moonphase complete the watch, priced upon request.
Independent watchmakers and value picks
Ferdinand Berthoud unveiled the Chronomètre FB 3SPC.4-1, with a 57-part ceramised titanium case to enhance scratch resistance. It houses the in-house FB-SPC calibre with helical hairspring on a textured textile strap, priced upon request. Ming addressed daylight saving time confusion for world-timer wearers with the 57.05 Comet.
The Ming uses a patent-pending bezel system that adjusts DST-observing cities without disturbing others. Limited to 200 pieces, it costs CHF 6,950 on leather or CHF 7,950 with a Polymesh titanium bracelet. Frederique Constant introduced the Moneta Handwinding, its first mechanical movement visible through an exhibition caseback.
The Frederique Constant has a grained salmon-to-black dial and fluted bezel. Limited to 999 pieces on black alligator leather, it is priced at CHF 1,995. Greubel Forsey brought the GMT Balancier Convexe, a more compact take on its complex GMT watch, in a titanium case measuring 42.90mm across and 17.60mm high.
The Greubel Forsey has a new power reserve indicator, a 30-degree inclined balance wheel and a city dial on the caseback, priced upon request. The field at Geneva Watch Days reflects a wider industry showing signs of recovery. Watch sales appear to have passed their lowest ebb after two years of U.S. tariffs, record gold prices, foreign exchange rates and geopolitical instability.
Jean-Christophe Babin, president of Geneva Watch Days and chief executive officer of LVMH Watches, said the event has become unmissable, carried forward by an ever-more-engaged community of brands, collectors, partners and enthusiasts.
Sources
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